Smocking is one of those textile techniques that looks impossibly intricate—until you get to know the stitches behind it. At its core, smocking is decorative embroidery worked over fabric that’s been gathered into even pleats. Different stitches create different textures, stretch, and visual rhythm. Here’s a quick tour of the most common smocking stitches and what makes each one special.
Cable Stitch
The cable stitch is the backbone of traditional English smocking. It forms neat, continuous lines that look like twisted cords across the fabric. Cables are usually worked in pairs of rows and are great for creating structure and definition in a smocked panel.
Outline (or Stem) Stitch
This stitch produces a softer, more fluid line. Outline stitches are often used for curves, vines, and delicate borders. Compared to cables, they’re less bold but add lovely movement and detail.
Trellis Stitch
Trellis stitches crisscross between pleats, forming diamond or lattice patterns. They’re perfect for filling space and adding visual complexity without overwhelming the design. Variations like the flowered trellis add tiny decorative elements at the intersections.
Wave Stitch
As the name suggests, wave stitches create a gentle, flowing pattern across the fabric. They’re often used in children’s garments and heirloom sewing because they feel playful and light while still showing off craftsmanship.
Honeycomb Stitch
This stitch is more about function than decoration. Honeycomb smocking creates maximum stretch, making it ideal for cuffs, bodices, and areas that need flexibility. The texture is subtle but beautifully tactile.
Bullion and French Knots
While not structural smocking stitches, these embellishments add dimension and flair. They’re commonly used for floral centers or accents within larger smocked designs.
Each smocking stitch brings its own personality—some bold and architectural, others soft and whimsical. Together, they turn simple gathered fabric into something timeless, textured, and full of charm. Whether you’re just starting out or refining your technique, experimenting with different stitches is half the joy of smocking.